Serbia, A reality Check
October 5 to october 10, 2015
Serbia is known for being home to rough people with little humour who drink a shot of rakija for breakfast. What I found when I travelled there though was a country of happy people who are proud of their heritage and very aware of their history. A serious people at times, but also up for a good time, aware the good things in life they have.
I called this post a reality check because this was the first time during my trip that I ran into Syrian refugees travelling North West, looking for a better life. I had heard a lot about their migration but had yet to see actually how they were making their way. I have no photos from the park in Belgrade where a tent city was set up for months, nor of the trains emptying out into the station, full of scared families; I felt it wasn't for me to document. They were their though, just as it had been described by the news. What was different from what I heard though was the response of individual citizens to the migrants. The people of Belgrade happily opened themselves and their country up to the Syrians, they didnt believe in the official policy of their state. To the park that housed most of the refugees in the city people brought food, clothes, water, and even cell phones and wifi daily. The people of Belgrade have known to recently the struggles of conflict and losing a safe place to call home and with that recently in their memory they warmly welcomed and looked after those passing through or attempting to stay.
I called this post a reality check because this was the first time during my trip that I ran into Syrian refugees travelling North West, looking for a better life. I had heard a lot about their migration but had yet to see actually how they were making their way. I have no photos from the park in Belgrade where a tent city was set up for months, nor of the trains emptying out into the station, full of scared families; I felt it wasn't for me to document. They were their though, just as it had been described by the news. What was different from what I heard though was the response of individual citizens to the migrants. The people of Belgrade happily opened themselves and their country up to the Syrians, they didnt believe in the official policy of their state. To the park that housed most of the refugees in the city people brought food, clothes, water, and even cell phones and wifi daily. The people of Belgrade have known to recently the struggles of conflict and losing a safe place to call home and with that recently in their memory they warmly welcomed and looked after those passing through or attempting to stay.
Beograd
october 5 to october 8, 2015
Belgrade was an amazing city to visit, both for the look and the feel of it. I did a few separate free walking tours and they each brought a new view to the city and its past. Skadarlija brings a bohemian feel to the city with its outdoor cafes and public space full of ghosts from arts past; and at the same time in the main center of town a modern, commerce feel can be felt.
I was lucky to meet up with a friend I'd met travelling Zanzibar a few years ago, Nemo, who is very successful in the tech start-up world. A city presents itself to you in a completely different way when experiencing it with people who live there and it was through Nemo I was able to find a great hidden bar called Beerville. We were there for trivia night and I would 100% guarantee visiting if you enjoy good beers and low-key pub feel. https://www.facebook.com/beervillebeerbarandstore
Belgrade will keep you busy for a few days, garenteed, and its an easy city to walk around in. I took in a umber of sights here and none disappointed. The old fortress, the Nikola Tesla, the Church of Saint Sava, the Museum of Yugoslavian History....they all live up to their reputation.
I was lucky to meet up with a friend I'd met travelling Zanzibar a few years ago, Nemo, who is very successful in the tech start-up world. A city presents itself to you in a completely different way when experiencing it with people who live there and it was through Nemo I was able to find a great hidden bar called Beerville. We were there for trivia night and I would 100% guarantee visiting if you enjoy good beers and low-key pub feel. https://www.facebook.com/beervillebeerbarandstore
Belgrade will keep you busy for a few days, garenteed, and its an easy city to walk around in. I took in a umber of sights here and none disappointed. The old fortress, the Nikola Tesla, the Church of Saint Sava, the Museum of Yugoslavian History....they all live up to their reputation.
While travelling the former Yugoslavian countries you will hear a plethora of views on the events that took place. You will hear that each country was both at fault for the devastation of another and that it was the only one not at fault. Finding a neutral telling of the collapse is impossible; I tried. Here in Serbia though lays Josep Broz Tito, the man who lead Yugoslavia in various roles from 1943 to 1980 and has been mostly agreed to have been an amazing leader. After his death the Yugoslav nation fell and many look back on his years in power as the true golden age for Eastern Europe. He has been credited for uniting the country and pulling it forward with ideas that may have hurt some, but greatly aided the majority. His ideas were based in Socialism and were sometimes referred to as National Communism. Another way one can view his policies is by seeing them as forceful and oppressive... but be sure not to say that too loudly.
The Museum of Yugoslav History is my mind is a must visit location. I visited it while on a $10 walking tour focused on Yugoslav history in Belgrade. The museum overflows with love and adoration for Tito, even including a 15 minute video with a compilation of Tito's best moments.
The Museum of Yugoslav History is my mind is a must visit location. I visited it while on a $10 walking tour focused on Yugoslav history in Belgrade. The museum overflows with love and adoration for Tito, even including a 15 minute video with a compilation of Tito's best moments.
Lapovo train Station
october 9
The Lapovo train station is definetly not somewhere I intended on ending up. My arrival hear was due to a silly mistake and a train system that is way out of date. As an aside I would suggest anyone looking to travel Eastern Europe do not buy a train pass or chose the train over the bus for any route. I heard a great and accurate description of the Serbian trains from another traveller that I think is very suiting: "Its like Italy had a train for 10 years and thought it was too old to run so they sold it to Slovenia, who ran it for another 5 before handing it off to another country that thought it was soon too junky to run so they through it is a lake were it sat soaking and rusty for months before Serbia fished it out." May be a little harsh...but pretty accurate.
So, meaning to go to Novi Sad, I got on a train that left at the right time from the right platform, and found out 2 hours later (11pm) that in fact I was heading the wrong way i would be left at the Lapovo train station. A conductor who spoke very little English said I may be in luck and a train may come at 1:30am back to Belgrade or I may not be in luck and need to wait until 5am. It turns out I was not in luck and I spent my night in something like a horror movie. The station was small, deserted, and decrepit. The trains cars parked in the yard smelt of piss and were filled with sleeping people who may or may not have been planning on taking the train. I didn't know if it was safer to stay hidden in a shadow or in the light of this bare waiting room. I passed a very scary and long night going between station and train cars until 5am when I embarrassing headed back to Belgrade.
So, meaning to go to Novi Sad, I got on a train that left at the right time from the right platform, and found out 2 hours later (11pm) that in fact I was heading the wrong way i would be left at the Lapovo train station. A conductor who spoke very little English said I may be in luck and a train may come at 1:30am back to Belgrade or I may not be in luck and need to wait until 5am. It turns out I was not in luck and I spent my night in something like a horror movie. The station was small, deserted, and decrepit. The trains cars parked in the yard smelt of piss and were filled with sleeping people who may or may not have been planning on taking the train. I didn't know if it was safer to stay hidden in a shadow or in the light of this bare waiting room. I passed a very scary and long night going between station and train cars until 5am when I embarrassing headed back to Belgrade.
Country Summary
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